BEAUJOLAIS WINES ARE AN OFFICIAL PARTNER OF THE ASI BEST SOMMELIER OF THE WORLD CONTEST, PARIS 2023. IN PREPARATION FOR THIS PRESTIGIOUS EVENT, WE MET LAURENT DERHÉ, BEST ARTISAN SOMMELIER OF FRANCE 2007 AND PRESIDENT OF THE ASSOCIATION OF SOMMELIERS OF LYON AND RHÔNE-ALPES. HE GAVE US HIS OPINION ON THE EXCEPTIONAL BEAUJOLAIS WINES.
Interview conducted during the tasting of exceptional Beaujolais wines at the Paul Bocuse Institute & the restaurant Saisons* – Ecully, October 2022, in preparation for the Best Sommelier of the World Contest, 2023. The video of the interview with Laurent Derhé, sommelier, is available at the end of the interview.
WHAT CAN YOU TELL US ABOUT TODAY’S TASTING IN PREPARATION FOR THE BEST SOMMELIER OF THE WORLD CONTEST?
“Today the objective was to select wines that are typical of our magnificent Beaujolais vineyard, Gamays and Chardonnays. The idea is to present them to the sommeliers of the world [during the week-long competition*]. We have to have the most representative and high-quality selection possible, which will allow us to show that this vineyard is a great vineyard.”
*The short-listed wines will be presented to sommeliers from around the world, at the Best Sommelier of the World Contest 2023.
LAURENT DERHÉ, YOUR REACTIONS AFTER THIS TASTING?
“The first thing that struck us was the quality of the wines as a whole! Of course, we’re aware of the current increase in quality of Beaujolais wines, which didn’t make the task of selecting wines any easier. But we were able to pick some fairly modern cuvées with a certain concentrated style. Some were chosen for their freshness, another of Gamay’s fortes. Or even some fine, typical Chardonnays, for their youthful character. It was a great day’s tasting!”
ANY FAVOURITES AMONG THESE EXCEPTIONAL BEAUJOLAIS?
“I remember a very, very fine Chénas from Domaine Anita for example. A young wine, from 2020, that tasted very good. I also liked the Lardet family’s wines, and some cuvées that have aged a little.
Some Beaujolais wines age very well, thanks to their balance between acidity and maturity. We saw that once again this morning. Great vintages like 2015, for the classic Château des Jacques in Moulin-à-Vent for example, once again showed us that Beaujolais crus age very well.”
THE BEAUJOLAIS REGION IS VERY DIVERSE IN TERMS OF TERROIRS, LIEUX-DITS, MICROCLIMATES, WINEMAKERS… DID THAT COME THROUGH DURING THE TASTING?
“Today, we saw everything that the Beaujolais region has to offer, with its diverse terroirs, granitic in the north and sandy in the south. Nevertheless, we did see something that all these wines have in common. It’s this upsurge in quality that is taking hold of all the vineyard and its new generation.
It’s nothing new, this has been going on for 10, 15, even 20 years. But for ten years or so, we’ve seen a generalised momentum, where some wine-making processes are a little more modern. Some of the wines are a bit more concentrated, while others have a woodier flavour… And yet, from under it all, these terroirs re-emerge clearly, softly or more intensely depending on their specific characteristics. All the wealth and diversity the Beaujolais region has to offer did indeed come through this morning.”
WHAT ROLE DO BEAUJOLAIS WINES PLAY IN THE RESTAURANT BUSINESS? WHAT DO THEY BRING TO THE TABLE?
“What’s so fascinating about Beaujolais wines, it’s that they can adapt to meals.
Some vintners make wines that are soft and smooth. This is the case for the Beaujolais and Beaujolais Villages we tasted this morning for example, or even some of the crus. They can go with lunchtime meals, or summertime meals, served fresh and crisp. Others offer gastronomic wines that are more structured, with an interesting strength and complexity.
They allow us sommeliers to make highly sophisticated food and wine pairings. The freshness and perfect balance of Gamay grapes make them an extremely modern varietal, producing wines that are very well suited to a meal.
They are restaurant, gastronomic and sommelier wines. And it’s our job to showcase them. In the Beaujolais region, there are many winemakers and just as many different identities, and we love telling their stories!”
EARLIER YOU MENTIONED BEAUJOLAIS WHITE WINES; WHAT SETS THEM APART?
“In the Beaujolais region, we are fortunate to have white wines. Chardonnay, a grape varietal found all over Burgundy […], in the Mâconnnais district or the Côte Chalonnaise, offers something different in the Beaujolais region. Freshness. Not the freshness of Chablis on these chalky terroirs, but a well-placed freshness that remains on the finish.
Chardonnay with its classic flavours of green apple, citrus fruits, notes of hawthorn or white flowers: that’s what we look for in a Beaujolais! The crisp, fresh, well-balanced and refreshing quality we particularly appreciate at the beginning of a meal.
Some winemakers produce cuvées with a slightly longer ageing process, which, when it’s done well and skilfully, results in more opulent wines.
No matter how they’re produced, we love Chardonnays from the Beaujolais vineyard. We like them for their balance, elegance or freshness.”
WHAT IS THE BEST SOMMELIER OF THE WORLD CONTEST?
“It’s an opportunity to bring together the world of sommellerie and to elect the Best Sommelier of the World through a series of tests. Around sixty countries take part. There are quarter-finals, semi-finals, and the final takes place in front of an audience, there’s incredible pressure… a true sporting competition. It’s going to be magnificent!
It’s also the opportunity to showcase our profession to the general public and the media. We are able to show that it is a wonderful profession based on knowledge, culture and tastings, where we share the meaning of life.
And it’s also the opportunity to meet people! The sommeliers come from all over the world: Asia, South Africa, the Americas, Australia and Europe, of course. We can share and chat during this week-long event, all the while showcasing French gastronomy.
And Beaujolais is part of that, and we are proud to see it at this momentous event. During one week, Paris will be at the heart of the global winemaking system, of catering and sommellerie. It’s a great opportunity for us, for our vineyards, and for Beaujolais wines in particular.”
LAURENT DERHÉ, AS A SOMMELIER AND MEMBER OF THE FRENCH TEAM, HOW ARE YOU HELPING THE FRENCH CANDIDATE, PASCALINE LEPELTIER?
“The sommeliers of Lyon are proud to support the French candidate in this competition. As the president of the Sommeliers of Lyon, I am extremely proud that she is representing us!
She embodies the international aspect of sommellerie. A Frenchwoman passionate about the Loire Valley, she has a wealth of experience in France and now also in New York. She also represents everything that modern sommellerie can express. She’s a woman, of course, but that’s not all… She is above all a great sommelier who will be representing us!
All the sommeliers of France are behind her, so we hope she will go all the way, and we believe she will!”
Interview with Laurent Derhé, sommelier
