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Research in the Beaujolais region: towards the viticulture of tomorrow

In the Beaujolais region, the passion for wine research is nothing new. Inspired by the engineer and businessman Victor Vermorel at the end of the 19th century, it still strives to improve both wine quality and agronomic practices. Full of challenges, the viticulture of tomorrow is being invented today thanks to the work of Beaujolais researchers. Here is an overview of the jobs and research projects underway in the vineyard.

The Beaujolais region, historically at the forefront of vine and wine research

Victor Vermorel, visionary Beaujolais researcher and entrepreneur
Victor Vermorel – Senat.fr archives

Where does this Beaujolais passion for wine research come from?

If Beaujolais viticulture research had a face, it would be that of Victor Vermorel. Born on the banks of the Saône river, the researcher contributed to the advancement of knowledge in viticulture throughout his life. A visionary, the man who advocated ‘progress through experience’ made the Beaujolais region a leading centre in wine research.

Victor Vermorel impressed late 19th-century winemakers with his many inventions. Notably, he and Pierre Viala wrote the historic book “L’Ampélographie. Traité général de viticulture”. Published in 1900, this book documents and illustrates the 5200 grape varietals found around the world and is still a reference today.

L’Ampélographie. Traité général de viticulture, Victor Vermorel and Pierre Viala, 1900
L’Ampélographie. Traité général de viticulture, Victor Vermorel and Pierre Viala, 1900
Petit Gamay, excerpt from Ampélographie, VIALA-VERMOREL 1900
Illustration of gamay grapes, L’Ampélographie. Traité général de viticulture, Victor Vermorel and Pierre Viala, 1900
Chardonnay, excerpt from Ampélographie, VIALA-VERMOREL 1900
Illustration of chardonnay grapes, L’Ampélographie. Traité général de viticulture, Victor Vermorel and Pierre Viala, 1900

Between 1888 and 1897, Victor Vermorel imagined the vine and wine research centres that we have today in the Beaujolais region. He created the very first Station Viticole at 210 Boulevard Vermorel in Villefranche-sur-Saône. This location – where researchers still work today – was initially composed of laboratories, an impressive library, as well as a mini vat room… The entrepreneur also made Château de l’Eclair, in Liergues, into an experimental wine estate. At the time, these locations aroused everybody’s curiosity and researchers from around the world came to visit them.

Interconnected research centres in the Beaujolais region

As you can see, Victor Vermorel’s legacy shaped today’s research into Beaujolais viticulture. It is the many interconnected organisations that work hand in hand that make it so unique. Inter Beaujolais – the organisation responsible for developing the wine sector – includes research and experimentation among its missions. These missions are carried out by the SICAREX Beaujolais (Société d’Intérêt Collectif Agricole de Recherches et d’EXpérimentations or Agricultural Research and Experimentation Collective Interest Company) thanks to a 20-hectare experimental wine estate. The research centre works closely with the Bourgogne-Beaujolais-Jura-Savoie division of the French Wine and Vine Institute (IFV). With 18 units in France’s wine-growing regions, it has a team of 9 researchers in the Beaujolais region. These three organisations are all located at the same address, nicknamed the ‘210 en Beaujolais’ in Villefranche-sur-Saône. The SICAREX Beaujolais and IFV carry out many of their vine and wine experiments at Château de l’Eclair. The estate, once occupied by Victor Vermorel, is now called the ‘Beaujolais region’s open-air laboratory’. Although they are based in the Rhône department, the SICAREX Beaujolais and IFV teams work on local, national and international projects. Their research is not limited to regional issues. It often concerns the French vineyard as a whole.

Harvest in the experimental plots at the SICAREX Beaujolais © Studio Baalt 2021
Château de l’Eclair and its vat room, the SICAREX Beaujolais’ experimental estate © Château de l’Eclair

In the field, the Rhône Chamber of Agriculture is responsible for sharing the results of the research with the Beaujolais region’s winemakers, estates and wineries. This is achieved through training, organising technical meetings or even hosting winemaker associations (Vigneron·ne·s du Vivant en Beaujolais for example).

Returnable bottles, example of a cross-disciplinary research topic

In the Beaujolais region, research often brings together the SICAREX Beaujolais, the IFV, lnter Beaujolais and Château de l’Eclair. This is the case for example for an experiment in bottle recycling that began in 2023.

Did you know? Research carried out by the IFV shows that packaging represents 40 to 50% of the industry’s global carbon footprint. To reduce this major impact, we must either opt for lighter bottles or adopt a deposit-return scheme. In order to provide data and feedback, research is being carried out in the Beaujolais region at all levels. The SICAREX Beaujolais’ Sensory Unit is studying the image of the deposit-return scheme among stakeholders in the industry. At the same time, Inter Beaujolais has set up an observatory to monitor wine quality and bottle weight. And finally, Château de l’Eclair is selling a test batch of Beaujolais Nouveaux in returnable bottles. The first results and feedback are available in a White Paper published at the end of the year.

Bottling in the Beaujolais region – F.Ferrer 2020

Current research in the Beaujolais region: projects and innovations

Carbon footprint, adapting to global warming, resistant grape varietals, consumer expectations… the major research topics in the Beaujolais region

The most important challenge facing winegrowers this century is adapting to the new circumstances dictated by global warming. As such, the main aim of research in the Beaujolais region is to provide guidance to those involved in the industry in this context. This includes measuring carbon footprints, agronomic experimentations, exploring plant material and studying consumer tastes…

 « Notre métier est de répondre aux questions que se posent les professionnels. Elles sont le reflet des attentes sociétales et des besoins du secteur ».

Bertrand Chatelet, Director of the SICAREX Beaujolais and the Beaujolais-Bourgogne-Jura-Savoie division of the IFV, © Jonas Jacquel

Measuring the carbon footprint of viticulture

Based in the Beaujolais region, the IFV’s Environmental Assessment Unit is studying the industry’s impact with the aim of finding ways of mitigating it. This unit measures the carbon footprint of wine estates and compares data relating to each stage of a wine’s life cycle. It constantly monitors and studies different practices in order to provide guidance to professionals seeking to reduce their company’s carbon footprint.

Adapting vineyard practices in response to global warming

Adapting to climate change is another area of research for the IFV Beaujolais-Savoie’s Technical Unit. Agronomic experiments are being carried out with the aim of maintaining yields and wine quality despite climate change. The purpose of this research is to provide gradual solutions and short-term measures (shade nets, foliage modifications…), while keeping an eye out for longer-term solutions (resistant grape varietals in particular).

Presentation of experimental results during the annual SICAREX-IFV ‘Open plot day’ at Château de l’Eclair © Inter Beaujolais 2022
Vinification trials using resistant grape varietals carried out by the SICAREX-IFV at Château de l’Eclair © Studio Baalt 2021

Preserving the iconic Beaujolais grape varietal

Researchers at the SICAREX Beaujolais still carry out one of its historic missions: selecting and preserving the genetic diversity of the gamay grape. They maintain an impressive collection of over 1000 different gamay grapes (from Italy, Switzerland, south-west France…). This effort to preserve plant life goes even further with the “Qanopee” project. Led by winegrowers from the Beaujolais region, Champagne and Burgundy, the project aims to pre-multiply healthy vine stocks in a 4500m² bioclimatic greenhouse. And the objective? Safeguarding the vineyards’ plant heritage.

Gamay bunch in Beaujolais
Gamay bunch – E.Ramousse

> Also read: “The viticulture of tomorrow according to Beaujolais researchers

Creating grape varietals capable of rising to this century’s challenges

Young vines – SICAREX Beaujolais – Jonas Jacquel
Young vines – SICAREX Beaujolais – Jonas Jacquel

Varietal creation is a central theme for the SICAREX Beaujolais according to its Director, Bertrand Chatelet. As early as the 70s, the research centre joined an unprecedented programme set up by the INRAE and became a reference in the field. Varietal selection is a lengthy process, involving the observation and comparison of the 180 grape varietals planted on a plot at Château de l’Eclair. Notably, the SICAREX Beaujolais created the gaminot, a cross between gamay and pinot noir. The teams are currently focusing their research on varieties that are resistant to both fungal diseases and drought. Some of these resistant grape varietals have already been planted in the Beaujolais region. The gamaret and the voltis – to name just a couple – could also be included in the specifications for appellations.

Identifying future consumer expectations

To generate knowledge for science and the industry as a whole, a sensory analysis unit was set up in 2023. Its team of engineers is leading research projects that extend far beyond the Beaujolais vineyard, and even the French vineyard as a whole. They put the consumers’ sensory judgment at the heart of their research, via focus groups and tastings. One of the key projects set up in 2020 focuses on the perception of wines with no added sulphites. The results of this study, conducted with a panel of consumers and professionals, will be published at the end of 2024.

Focus on GES&Vit, the first tool to measure the wine industry’s carbon footprint, created in the Beaujolais region

Ges&Vit logo

The Environmental Assessment Unit pulled out all the stops to respond to the pressing need to measure the carbon footprint of winegrowers and makers. It was the first to offer a tool capable of doing so as early as 2021. Given the name GES&Vit, its purpose is to support the wine industry in its low-carbon transition.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=4tC7EBdyi-k
Ges&Vit, the carbon footprint measuring tool made in Beaujolais – Video IFV & MarnieProduction

GES&Vit is used to assess current practices and simulate different methods of vine management. It also provides the necessary tools to take action thanks to an action plan designed to reduce the carbon footprint of wine estates. The tool is available to wine advisers and technicians, provided they have taken a training course to learn how to use it. Many professionals in France have already started using it.


While Victor Vermorel laid the foundations for wine research in the Beaujolais region, the wine industry has successfully shaped itself so that it could bear fruit. The teams at Inter Beaujolais, the SICAREX Beaujolais, the IFV and the Rhône Chamber of Agriculture work hand in hand to ensure that it continues to flourish. Firmly rooted in their time, their research is a mine of information for building the vineyards of tomorrow.

Curious to know what wine experts think? Check out the article “The viticulture of tomorrow according to Beaujolais researchers

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Futures Beaujolais Premiers Crus ?

Premier cru: a move upmarket supported by the winegrowers.

Pissevieille, Côte du Py, La Madone, Champ de Cour… Have you ever noticed these names on bottles of Beaujolais crus? Whether you are familiar or not with the notion of ‘vins de lieux’, or ‘site-specific wines’, we are going to explain what it means, at a time where several crus are hoping to see the emergence of Beaujolais Premiers Crus.

Are some Beaujolais wines on their way to gaining recognition as Premiers Crus? This is in any case the path some of the vineyards’ ten crus have taken. Lieux-dits – literally “said-names” – are geographical areas recognised in the land register and have been recorded on maps for more than two centuries. Now, winegrowers are seeking recognition for these special terroirs. Will they go as far as to be classified as Premiers Crus? Let’s take a look at this lengthy undertaking, the progress of which varies from one cru to another.


Beaujolais : a vineyard made of crus and lieux-dits

Does “lieu-dit” and “premier cru” mean anything to you ?

Firstly, what are lieux-dits and what does Premier Cru mean? When it comes to wine, lieux-dits are specific registered terroirs within the appellation. There are almost 600 in the Beaujolais cru area alone and each one produces its own distinctive cuvées. An increasing number of winegrowers mention them on their labels. A Premier Cru is a step above crus in the hierarchy of wines and is recognised as an exceptional terroir with regulated practices

A mosaic of soils in the beaujolais region

While the variety of soils found across the Beaujolais vineyard has not escaped the notice of winegrowers past and present, a veritable mosaic of soils was brought to light in 2018. An unprecedented study – which took 9 years to complete – revealed more than 300 types of soil from the 15 main types of rock. So it’s hardly surprising that Beaujolais wines are so different, not just from one AOC to another, but also from one lieu-dit to another.

Age-old lieux-dits

The lieux-dits found in the 12 appellations are part of the Beaujolais region’s winegrowing history. ‘Carriers of history’ still tell stories about these places named after a historical event, a family or even a natural feature of the landscape. Some lieux-dits are even mentioned on old maps, labels or harvest declarations… The 1869 Budker map for example identified no fewer than 200 lieux-dits! In other words, the plot-by-plot approach used in the Beaujolais region is nothing new.

Carte Budker -1869
Lieux-dits of the “Beaujolais hillside” identified on the 1869 Budker map, Bibliothèque Nationale de France

Why does the Beaujolais vineyard want its own premiers crus ?

The plot-by-plot approach, an integral part of the Beaujolais region’s identity

Whether they are introducing their ‘lieux-dits cuvées’ or naming their bottles after them, an increasing number of Beaujolais winegrowers, like their ancestors, are using a plot-by-plot approach. Aware of the variability of the soils they work on and determined to offer unique ranges of wines, they create cuvées and even micro-cuvées to reveal the potential of each lieu-dit. Some people call these wines ‘vins de lieux’.

Premier cru : a move upmarket driven by winegrowers

It is the winegrowers of each appellation themselves who are behind this project to recognise some wines as Premiers Crus. Their motivation? The desire to see the remarkable lieux-dits of the Beaujolais region fully appreciated and their specific characteristics fully acknowledged. As the presence of Premiers Crus is a guarantee of quality for the entire vineyard, it is the Beaujolais region as a whole that will gain recognition for its move upmarket.

A bird’s-eye view of Beaujolais plots.
A bird’s-eye view of Beaujolais plots © Beaujolais Wines / Etienne Ramousse

Is Beaujolais on a path towards premier cru recognition ?

How do you choose the lieux-dits that could be put forward for premier-cru recognition ?

Winegrowers selected the lieux-dits that are likely to become Premiers Crus using a method approved by the National Institute of Origin and Quality (INAO). To justify these potential upgrades, the institute requires the following criteria to be taken into account:

  • claims : do the winegrowers already mention the lieu-dit on their bottles and do they make it known during harvest time?
  • past reputation : are there references to the lieu-dit in the archives (maps, books…)?
  • current reputation: are they mentioned in guides, magazines competitions?
  • tastings: does the lieu-dit have specific characteristics compared to the generic appellation? Which ones?
  • value: does mentioning the lieu-dit add value to the bottle? Does it highlight the particular attention the winegrower paid to the cuvée? In other words, is a “lieu-dit” cuvée economically valued?

These criteria are used to rank the lieux-dits and ultimately select those with the highest scores and put them forward for the recognition.

Premier cru means regulated practices

So, what does recognition as a Premier Cru mean? Moving upmarket involves adopting more restrictive practices than those used for the rest of the appellation. Some examples? Among other things, Premiers Crus require lower yields during harvest time and longer ageing periods for the wines.

In order to standardise procedures, a set of basic Premier Cru specifications have been established. They are based on the practices described by winegrowers from each appellation. The crus put forward for a potential upgrade are welcome to go further.

Les 12 appellations du Beaujolais. ©Vins du Beaujolais
The 12 Beaujolais appellations.

Fleurie, Brouilly and Moulin-à-Vent, premier cru applicants 

How are the ten crus doing ?

The ten crus have always showcased their terroirs, but it is only since 2019 that they have embarked on this joint mission to gain recognition for their lieux-dits, in order to more precisely define each terroir.

This undertaking may eventually lead to some of them gaining recognition as Premiers Crus. This will soon be the case for FleurieBrouillyMoulin-à-VentCôte de Brouilly and Juliénas. For the remaining five, data collection continues.

The lieux-dits put forward for premier cru recognition

It was the Fleurie winegrowers who first applied for Premier Cru recognition. They were followed a few months later by those from Brouilly and Moulin-à-Vent. They adopted the INAO procedure in order to draw up a list of lieux-dits to be showcased. The applicants for the Premier Cru title selected at the General Assembly are: 

  • 7 lieux-dits in the Fleurie cru: Grille Midi, La Chapelle des Bois, La Madone, La Roilette, Les Garants, Les Moriers, Poncié
  • 16 in the Brouilly cru: Briante, Combiaty, Combiliaty, Garanches, La Chaize, La Martingale, La Perrière, La Terrière, Les Maisons neuves, Marquisat, Pierreux, Pissevieille, Reverdon, Saburin, Saint Pierre, Voujon
  • 14 in the Moulin-à-Vent cru: Au Michelon, Aux Caves, Carquelin, Champ de Cour, Chassignol, La Roche, La Rochelle, La Tour du Bief, Moulin-à-Vent, Les Perrelles, Les Rouchaux, Les Thorins, Les Verillats and Rochegrès.

And now ?

While the bulk of the work has already been done by the winegrowers, the Fleurie, Brouilly and Moulin-à-Vent crus are only at the beginning of the process. The application submitted by Fleurie is being assessed by the INAO, while those of Brouilly and Moulin-à-Vent are being finalised.

The body in charge of the original appellations begins its assessment once the applications have officially been submitted. This can take more than ten years and the INAO can make many adjustments. So, we have to be patient, it may take some time before we see the first Beaujolais Premiers Crus!

Le Clos, lieu-dit in the Chénas cru
Le Clos, lieu-dit in the Chénas cru, © Beaujolais Wines / Jonas Jacquel

The steps towards recognition as a premier cru

  • 2009 – 2018: unprecedented study to characterise the Beaujolais terroirs carried out by the Sigales pedological study agency
  • 2017: launch of a joint project by the 10 crus to move upmarket
  • April 2019: creation of a work method to determine the lieux-dits to be put forward for Premier Cru recognition
  • 2019 – 2024: survey of practices, creation of files for the lieux-dits, monthly tastings organised by each cru
  • 28 March 2023: vote during the Fleurie cru General Assembly for the 7 lieux-dits to be put forward
  • 16 October 2023: vote during the Brouilly cru General Assembly for the 16 lieux-dits to be put forward
  • 22 November 2023: Fleurie officially submitted its application to the INAO
  • 19 December 2023: vote during the Moulin-à-Vent cru General Assembly for the 14 lieux-dits to be put forward
  • In 2024: official submissions for the Brouilly and Moulin-à-Vent crus
  • By 2035: official recognition of the lieux-dits classified as “Premiers Crus”

Now the lieux-dits of the Beaujolais region and their potential to become Premiers Crus hold no secrets from you.

With this project to move upmarket, the ten crus both acknowledge that there is a treasure trove under the Beaujolais vineyard and share a common goal: to more precisely define each terroir.

This reappropriation by winegrowers of their lieux-dits is already changing the face of the Beaujolais vineyard.

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A Moulin-à-Vent cuvée awarded World’s Best Gamay 2024

Last Saturday, January 13th, the 14th International Gamay Competition was held at the Cité Internationale in Lyon. 811 cuvées from 4 different countries – France, Switzerland, Italy, Brazil – competed for the much-desired title. And after Brouilly in 2022, and Côte de Brouilly last year, a Moulin-à-Vent cuvée won the trophy.

Learn more about the 12 Beaujolais AOCs.

A record number of tasters

This event is not to be missed for some wine professionals and educated amateurs. 181 of them attended the event to taste the numerous cuvées registered for this competition. Gold and silver medals were attributed after a first tasting.

At the end of the first selection, a special jury of experts – a sommellerie teacher, an oenologist, a restaurateur, a wine merchant and a sommelier – blind tasted again the gold medal cuvées in order to find the best. It’s finally Moulin-à-Vent Old Vines 2023 from Domaine de Colonat which was elected World’s Best Gamay 2024.

267 gamay cuvées awarded by a medal

267 medals, among which 164 in gold and 103 in silver, were granted to the best Gamay cuvées of this competition. The jury also awarded a special mention to the best wine from Switzerland: Coteau de Peissy AOC, Le Baron Rouge Old Vines 1er cru 2022 from Domaine des Charmes, 100% Gamay.

Find the complete award list on the competition official website.

International Gamay Competition – © VBerlanda
Moulin-à-Vent Old Vines 2023 – Domaine de Colonat
Julie and Thomas Collonge

Moulin-à-Vent awarded World’s Best Gamay

The “World’s Best Gamay 2024” trophy has been awarded to Moulin-à-Vent Old Vines 2023 from Domaine de Colonat.

Winegrowers for 9 generations, the Collonge family cultivates 3 hectares of vines and produces cuvées of Morgon, Moulin-à-Vent, Chiroubles, Brouilly, Régnié and white Beaujolais AOCs. After studying viticulture and oenology, Thomas trained in France and abroad before joining the family wine estate for 10 years of passing on knowledge from its parents. Since 2018, Julie and Thomas have been continuying to develop the wine estate. The knowledge of their best terroirs allows them to offer 5 cuvées from specific plots from Moulin-à-Vent and Morgon AOCs.

Nous avons identifié au Domaine de Colonat trois éléments qui nous semblent essentiels pour produire des grands vins : nos vieilles vignes, le choix de la date de récolte et le tri des raisins à la récolte.” confie Thomas Collonge.

The grapes of this cuvée come from 3 different plots of Moulin-à-Vent AOC: les Greneriers, Bois Pontdevaux and Maison Neuve. The clay-granitic terroirs offer limited but regular water availability to the 61 to 93 year-old vines. The wine ages in concrete vats in order to preserve fruit and freshness.

Moulin-à-Vent AOC celebrates its centenary in 2024: get more news here.