Tag: Pur terroir

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Interview with Laurent Derhé, sommelier

BEAUJOLAIS WINES ARE AN OFFICIAL PARTNER OF THE ASI BEST SOMMELIER OF THE WORLD CONTEST, PARIS 2023. IN PREPARATION FOR THIS PRESTIGIOUS EVENT, WE MET LAURENT DERHÉ, BEST ARTISAN SOMMELIER OF FRANCE 2007 AND PRESIDENT OF THE ASSOCIATION OF SOMMELIERS OF LYON AND RHÔNE-ALPES. HE GAVE US HIS OPINION ON THE EXCEPTIONAL BEAUJOLAIS WINES.

Interview conducted during the tasting of exceptional Beaujolais wines at the Paul Bocuse Institute & the restaurant Saisons* – Ecully, October 2022, in preparation for the Best Sommelier of the World Contest, 2023. The video of the interview with Laurent Derhé, sommelier, is available at the end of the interview.

WHAT CAN YOU TELL US ABOUT TODAY’S TASTING IN PREPARATION FOR THE BEST SOMMELIER OF THE WORLD CONTEST?

“Today the objective was to select wines that are typical of our magnificent Beaujolais vineyard, Gamays and Chardonnays. The idea is to present them to the sommeliers of the world [during the week-long competition*]. We have to have the most representative and high-quality selection possible, which will allow us to show that this vineyard is a great vineyard.”

*The short-listed wines will be presented to sommeliers from around the world, at the Best Sommelier of the World Contest 2023.

LAURENT DERHÉ, YOUR REACTIONS AFTER THIS TASTING?

“The first thing that struck us was the quality of the wines as a whole! Of course, we’re aware of the current increase in quality of Beaujolais wines, which didn’t make the task of selecting wines any easier. But we were able to pick some fairly modern cuvées with a certain concentrated style. Some were chosen for their freshness, another of Gamay’s fortes. Or even some fine, typical Chardonnays, for their youthful character. It was a great day’s tasting!”

ANY FAVOURITES AMONG THESE EXCEPTIONAL BEAUJOLAIS?

“I remember a very, very fine Chénas from Domaine Anita for example. A young wine, from 2020, that tasted very good. I also liked the Lardet family’s wines, and some cuvées that have aged a little.

Some Beaujolais wines age very well, thanks to their balance between acidity and maturity. We saw that once again this morning. Great vintages like 2015, for the classic Château des Jacques in Moulin-à-Vent for example, once again showed us that Beaujolais crus age very well.”

THE BEAUJOLAIS REGION IS VERY DIVERSE IN TERMS OF TERROIRS, LIEUX-DITS, MICROCLIMATES, WINEMAKERS… DID THAT COME THROUGH DURING THE TASTING?

“Today, we saw everything that the Beaujolais region has to offer, with its diverse terroirs, granitic in the north and sandy in the south. Nevertheless, we did see something that all these wines have in common. It’s this upsurge in quality that is taking hold of all the vineyard and its new generation.

It’s nothing new, this has been going on for 10, 15, even 20 years. But for ten years or so, we’ve seen a generalised momentum, where some wine-making processes are a little more modern. Some of the wines are a bit more concentrated, while others have a woodier flavour… And yet, from under it all, these terroirs re-emerge clearly, softly or more intensely depending on their specific characteristics. All the wealth and diversity the Beaujolais region has to offer did indeed come through this morning.”

WHAT ROLE DO BEAUJOLAIS WINES PLAY IN THE RESTAURANT BUSINESS? WHAT DO THEY BRING TO THE TABLE?

“What’s so fascinating about Beaujolais wines, it’s that they can adapt to meals.

Some vintners make wines that are soft and smooth. This is the case for the Beaujolais and Beaujolais Villages we tasted this morning for example, or even some of the crus. They can go with lunchtime meals, or summertime meals, served fresh and crisp. Others offer gastronomic wines that are more structured, with an interesting strength and complexity.

They allow us sommeliers to make highly sophisticated food and wine pairings. The freshness and perfect balance of Gamay grapes make them an extremely modern varietal, producing wines that are very well suited to a meal.

They are restaurant, gastronomic and sommelier wines. And it’s our job to showcase them. In the Beaujolais region, there are many winemakers and just as many different identities, and we love telling their stories!”

EARLIER YOU MENTIONED BEAUJOLAIS WHITE WINES; WHAT SETS THEM APART?

“In the Beaujolais region, we are fortunate to have white wines. Chardonnay, a grape varietal found all over Burgundy […], in the Mâconnnais district or the Côte Chalonnaise, offers something different in the Beaujolais region. Freshness. Not the freshness of Chablis on these chalky terroirs, but a well-placed freshness that remains on the finish.

Chardonnay with its classic flavours of green apple, citrus fruits, notes of hawthorn or white flowers: that’s what we look for in a Beaujolais! The crisp, fresh, well-balanced and refreshing quality we particularly appreciate at the beginning of a meal.

Some winemakers produce cuvées with a slightly longer ageing process, which, when it’s done well and skilfully, results in more opulent wines.

No matter how they’re produced, we love Chardonnays from the Beaujolais vineyard. We like them for their balance, elegance or freshness.”

WHAT IS THE BEST SOMMELIER OF THE WORLD CONTEST?

“It’s an opportunity to bring together the world of sommellerie and to elect the Best Sommelier of the World through a series of tests. Around sixty countries take part. There are quarter-finals, semi-finals, and the final takes place in front of an audience, there’s incredible pressure… a true sporting competition. It’s going to be magnificent!

It’s also the opportunity to showcase our profession to the general public and the media. We are able to show that it is a wonderful profession based on knowledge, culture and tastings, where we share the meaning of life.

And it’s also the opportunity to meet people! The sommeliers come from all over the world: Asia, South Africa, the Americas, Australia and Europe, of course. We can share and chat during this week-long event, all the while showcasing French gastronomy.

And Beaujolais is part of that, and we are proud to see it at this momentous event. During one week, Paris will be at the heart of the global winemaking system, of catering and sommellerie. It’s a great opportunity for us, for our vineyards, and for Beaujolais wines in particular.”

LAURENT DERHÉ, AS A SOMMELIER AND MEMBER OF THE FRENCH TEAM, HOW ARE YOU HELPING THE FRENCH CANDIDATE, PASCALINE LEPELTIER?

“The sommeliers of Lyon are proud to support the French candidate in this competition. As the president of the Sommeliers of Lyon, I am extremely proud that she is representing us!

She embodies the international aspect of sommellerie. A Frenchwoman passionate about the Loire Valley, she has a wealth of experience in France and now also in New York. She also represents everything that modern sommellerie can express. She’s a woman, of course, but that’s not all… She is above all a great sommelier who will be representing us!

All the sommeliers of France are behind her, so we hope she will go all the way, and we believe she will!”

Interview with Laurent Derhé, sommelier

FOR MORE INFORMATION ABOUT THE WINES CHOSEN TO BE PRESENTED AT THE BEST SOMMELIER OF THE WORLD CONTEST IN PARIS IN 2023, CLICK HERE!

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Interview with Gaëtan Bouvier, sommelier

Beaujolais wines are an official Partner of the ASI Best Sommelier of the World Contest, Paris 2023. In preparation for this momentous event, we spoke to Gaëtan Bouvier, best french sommelier 2016 and best artisan sommelier of France 2022. He talked to us about the exceptional Beaujolais wines.

Interview conducted during the tasting of exceptional Beaujolais wines at the Paul Bocuse Institute & the restaurant Saisons* – Ecully, October 2022, in preparation for the Best Sommelier of the World Contest, 2023. The video is available at the end of the interview.

What was the purpose of today’s tasting?

“The purpose was to select the cuvées that will represent the Beaujolais region at the Best Sommelier of the World Contest. I teamed up with Philippe Faure-Brac and Laurent Derhé to taste the various crus as well as Beaujolais and Beaujolais Villages, both whites and reds. And we highlighted what we considered to be the quintessence of the cuvées on offer. This special moment enabled us to make some wonderful discoveries that we can’t wait to share with the world of sommellerie next February!”

*The short-listed wines will be presented to sommeliers from around the world at the Best Sommelier of the World Contest 2023.

What stood out for you, Gaëtan Bouvier, sommelier ?

“As a sommelier working in the Lyon region, the potential of Beaujolais wines is not news to me! And it was in fact confirmed once again during the blind tasting this morning. Some crus I particularly like also showed me the collective quality of the work carried out by winemakers, for the various cuvées. It is very interesting to see that some plots, whose wine I tasted a year ago, are now fully revealing how they developed.”

What did you think of the white wines ? What is a Beaujolais chardonnay like ?

“I found the white wines to be brilliant, luminous. The ones we selected are slightly tangy, they are fresh, honest and straightforward. That’s how we like them. They often have lemony tones, but also a certain weightiness.

What really makes the difference are the geological conditions. Between granitic terroirs and clayey-limestone terroirs, the soil leaves its mark on the mouthfeel and the liveliness of the wine. Truly like a sponge, the Chardonnay varietal soaks up the characteristics of these two major geological families of the Beaujolais region. And when all is said and done, this translates beautifully in the glass!”

You mentioned the various terroirs that are characteristic of the Beaujolais region; was this diversity felt during the tasting ?

“The geological diversity of the Beaujolais region was clearly revealed in each glass. We often oversimplify the Beaujolais vineyard by talking about granite. But there are so many lieux-dits, micro-terroirs and soil textures that it completely changes the intrinsic quality of the wines. The elevation and exposure of the crus from hilly vineyards came through during the tasting. I’m thinking about “l’Héronde” for example, a very nice lieux-dit of the Côte-de-Brouilly cru. It stood out for many winegrowers this morning, which is proof that terroirs determine the quality of the wines.”

Gaëtan Bouvier, any favourites ?

“Yes, many! I loved the Domaine des Marrans in Fleurie and the Saint-Amour from Château des Bachelards. The Moulin-à-Vent from Richard Rottiers won me over with Les Thorins, a magnificent Romanèche terroir. I also found the Château des Jacques, a classic. It’s like listening to Mozart: it’s always beautiful and well done! Finally, the Domaine des Nugues, also in Fleurie, blew me away during the tasting with its incredibly powerful concentration.”

You tasted wines that have aged a little, more than the years for some. What did you think of them?

“We need to get away from this idea that Beaujolais wines should only be drunk when they are young. Of course, at first glance, Gamay has, for some cuvées, the ability to express very aromatic notes. It has a crisp and seductive fruitiness when it’s young.

But winegrowers also look for a depth of terroir. When Gamay grapes balance out and mellow with time, they develop incredible smoky notes, particularly on granite. For me these are great, great wines, capable of rivalling the greatest crus in the world. So, we can move away from traditional gastronomic dishes and go for seafood stews or very elaborate gourmet meals.

Beaujolais is also a great gastronomic wine!”

What role do Beaujolais wines play on a wine list ?

“First of all, they appeal to people between the ages of 25 and 40, which is a good thing for the future. In fact, younger customers appreciate the fairly delicate tannins of a Gamay, its fruitiness, its generosity. It’s true that Gamay wines offer an immediacy that even great Beaujolais wines are able to provide.

Plus, nowadays, there is more and more diversity in the Beaujolais region. In terms of vinification, for example, many philosophies coexist. There are very structured wines and then there are those made by the disciples of Jules Chauvet, for example, which are a little more unconventional. And this diversity is also apparent in terms of terroirs. There are ten crus and just as many incredible nuances. And within these crus, we can also identify lieux-dits and plots with specific profiles.

It’s such a large selection and it needs to be represented on a wine list. I think that this wine region has once again become a great classic. This is why the ten Beaujolais crus are a minimum requirement on any wine list today. And no matter where you are in the world!”

What is the best sommelier of the world contest?

“It’s a competition of excellence that showcases our profession to the world. It puts candidates in the spotlight. I hope that this year, the winner will be the French candidate, Pascaline Lepeltier, who we support.

This competition is a fantastic opportunity for the sommelier profession and for all those involved in the industry. The winemakers we work with are not just suppliers. They are the driving force behind our restaurants, our wineries and our wine lists.”

As the coach, so to speak, of the french candidate, how are you helping her to prepare for the competition?

“I wouldn’t go as far as to say I’m a coach! But I’m sharing knowledge and doing everything I can to help Pascaline, that’s for sure! She can count on the team at the Union de la Sommellerie Française to give her all the support she needs.

We invited her here to the Paul Bocuse Institute. Here, she can work in a peaceful environment, where she can talk and share with others. We have brought together all the people we know who can help her, whether they are chefs, sommeliers or maîtres d’hôtel. There’s a whole team to welcome her and make sure she leaves with a little something extra. Whether it’s for her or for the competition.”

For more information about the wines chosen to be presented at the best sommelier of the world contest in Paris in 2023, click here!

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Futures Beaujolais Premiers Crus ?

Premier cru: a move upmarket supported by the winegrowers.

Pissevieille, Côte du Py, La Madone, Champ de Cour… Have you ever noticed these names on bottles of Beaujolais crus? Whether you are familiar or not with the notion of ‘vins de lieux’, or ‘site-specific wines’, we are going to explain what it means, at a time where several crus are hoping to see the emergence of Beaujolais Premiers Crus.

Are some Beaujolais wines on their way to gaining recognition as Premiers Crus? This is in any case the path some of the vineyards’ ten crus have taken. Lieux-dits – literally “said-names” – are geographical areas recognised in the land register and have been recorded on maps for more than two centuries. Now, winegrowers are seeking recognition for these special terroirs. Will they go as far as to be classified as Premiers Crus? Let’s take a look at this lengthy undertaking, the progress of which varies from one cru to another.

Beaujolais : a vineyard made of crus and lieux-dits

Does “lieu-dit” and “premier cru” mean anything to you ?

Firstly, what are lieux-dits and what does Premier Cru mean? When it comes to wine, lieux-dits are specific registered terroirs within the appellation. There are almost 600 in the Beaujolais cru area alone and each one produces its own distinctive cuvées. An increasing number of winegrowers mention them on their labels. A Premier Cru is a step above crus in the hierarchy of wines and is recognised as an exceptional terroir with regulated practices. 

A mosaic of soils in the beaujolais region

While the variety of soils found across the Beaujolais vineyard has not escaped the notice of winegrowers past and present, a veritable mosaic of soils was brought to light in 2018. An unprecedented study – which took 9 years to complete – revealed more than 300 types of soil from the 15 main types of rock. So it’s hardly surprising that Beaujolais wines are so different, not just from one AOC to another, but also from one lieu-dit to another.

Age-old lieux-dits

The lieux-dits found in the 12 appellations are part of the Beaujolais region’s winegrowing history. ‘Carriers of history’ still tell stories about these places named after a historical event, a family or even a natural feature of the landscape. Some lieux-dits are even mentioned on old maps, labels or harvest declarations… The 1869 Budker map for example identified no fewer than 200 lieux-dits! In other words, the plot-by-plot approach used in the Beaujolais region is nothing new.

Carte Budker -1869
Lieux-dits of the “Beaujolais hillside” identified on the 1869 Budker map, Bibliothèque Nationale de France

Why does the Beaujolais vineyard want its own premiers crus ?

The plot-by-plot approach, an integral part of the Beaujolais region’s identity

Whether they are introducing their ‘lieux-dits cuvées’ or naming their bottles after them, an increasing number of Beaujolais winegrowers, like their ancestors, are using a plot-by-plot approach. Aware of the variability of the soils they work on and determined to offer unique ranges of wines, they create cuvées and even micro-cuvées to reveal the potential of each lieu-dit. Some people call these wines ‘vins de lieux’.

Premier cru : a move upmarket driven by winegrowers

It is the winegrowers of each appellation themselves who are behind this project to recognise some wines as Premiers Crus. Their motivation? The desire to see the remarkable lieux-dits of the Beaujolais region fully appreciated and their specific characteristics fully acknowledged. As the presence of Premiers Crus is a guarantee of quality for the entire vineyard, it is the Beaujolais region as a whole that will gain recognition for its move upmarket.

A bird’s-eye view of Beaujolais plots.
A bird’s-eye view of Beaujolais plots © Beaujolais Wines / Etienne Ramousse

Is Beaujolais on a path towards premier cru recognition ?

How do you choose the lieux-dits that could be put forward for premier-cru recognition ?

Winegrowers selected the lieux-dits that are likely to become Premiers Crus using a method approved by the National Institute of Origin and Quality (INAO). To justify these potential upgrades, the institute requires the following criteria to be taken into account:

  • claims : do the winegrowers already mention the lieu-dit on their bottles and do they make it known during harvest time?
  • past reputation : are there references to the lieu-dit in the archives (maps, books…)?
  • current reputation: are they mentioned in guides, magazines competitions?
  • tastings: does the lieu-dit have specific characteristics compared to the generic appellation? Which ones?
  • value: does mentioning the lieu-dit add value to the bottle? Does it highlight the particular attention the winegrower paid to the cuvée? In other words, is a “lieu-dit” cuvée economically valued?

These criteria are used to rank the lieux-dits and ultimately select those with the highest scores and put them forward for the recognition.

Premier cru means regulated practices

So, what does recognition as a Premier Cru mean? Moving upmarket involves adopting more restrictive practices than those used for the rest of the appellation. Some examples? Among other things, Premiers Crus require lower yields during harvest time and longer ageing periods for the wines.

In order to standardise procedures, a set of basic Premier Cru specifications have been established. They are based on the practices described by winegrowers from each appellation. The crus put forward for a potential upgrade are welcome to go further.

Les 12 appellations du Beaujolais. ©Vins du Beaujolais
The 12 Beaujolais appellations.

Fleurie, Brouilly and Moulin-à-Vent, premier cru applicants 

How are the ten crus doing ?

The ten crus have always showcased their terroirs, but it is only since 2019 that they have embarked on this joint mission to gain recognition for their lieux-dits, in order to more precisely define each terroir.

This undertaking may eventually lead to some of them gaining recognition as Premiers Crus. This will soon be the case for Fleurie, Brouilly, Moulin-à-Vent, Côte de Brouilly and Juliénas. For the remaining five, data collection continues.

The lieux-dits put forward for premier cru recognition

It was the Fleurie winegrowers who first applied for Premier Cru recognition. They were followed a few months later by those from Brouilly and Moulin-à-Vent. They adopted the INAO procedure in order to draw up a list of lieux-dits to be showcased. The applicants for the Premier Cru title selected at the General Assembly are: 

  • 7 lieux-dits in the Fleurie cru: Grille Midi, La Chapelle des Bois, La Madone, La Roilette, Les Garants, Les Moriers, Poncié
  • 16 in the Brouilly cru: Briante, Combiaty, Combiliaty, Garanches, La Chaize, La Martingale, La Perrière, La Terrière, Les Maisons neuves, Marquisat, Pierreux, Pissevieille, Reverdon, Saburin, Saint Pierre, Voujon
  • 14 in the Moulin-à-Vent cru: Au Michelon, Aux Caves, Carquelin, Champ de Cour, Chassignol, La Roche, La Rochelle, La Tour du Bief, Moulin-à-Vent, Les Perrelles, Les Rouchaux, Les Thorins, Les Verillats and Rochegrès.

And now ?

While the bulk of the work has already been done by the winegrowers, the Fleurie, Brouilly and Moulin-à-Vent crus are only at the beginning of the process. The application submitted by Fleurie is being assessed by the INAO, while those of Brouilly and Moulin-à-Vent are being finalised.

The body in charge of the original appellations begins its assessment once the applications have officially been submitted. This can take more than ten years and the INAO can make many adjustments. So, we have to be patient, it may take some time before we see the first Beaujolais Premiers Crus!

Le Clos, lieu-dit in the Chénas cru
Le Clos, lieu-dit in the Chénas cru, © Beaujolais Wines / Jonas Jacquel

The steps towards recognition as a premier cru

  • 2009 – 2018: unprecedented study to characterise the Beaujolais terroirs carried out by the Sigales pedological study agency
  • 2017: launch of a joint project by the 10 crus to move upmarket
  • April 2019: creation of a work method to determine the lieux-dits to be put forward for Premier Cru recognition
  • 2019 – 2024: survey of practices, creation of files for the lieux-dits, monthly tastings organised by each cru
  • 28 March 2023: vote during the Fleurie cru General Assembly for the 7 lieux-dits to be put forward
  • 16 October 2023: vote during the Brouilly cru General Assembly for the 16 lieux-dits to be put forward
  • 22 November 2023: Fleurie officially submitted its application to the INAO
  • 19 December 2023: vote during the Moulin-à-Vent cru General Assembly for the 14 lieux-dits to be put forward
  • In 2024: official submissions for the Brouilly and Moulin-à-Vent crus
  • By 2035: official recognition of the lieux-dits classified as “Premiers Crus”

Now the lieux-dits of the Beaujolais region and their potential to become Premiers Crus hold no secrets from you.

With this project to move upmarket, the ten crus both acknowledge that there is a treasure trove under the Beaujolais vineyard and share a common goal: to more precisely define each terroir.

This reappropriation by winegrowers of their lieux-dits is already changing the face of the Beaujolais vineyard.

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A Moulin-à-Vent cuvée awarded World’s Best Gamay 2024

Last Saturday, January 13th, the 14th International Gamay Competition was held at the Cité Internationale in Lyon. 811 cuvées from 4 different countries – France, Switzerland, Italy, Brazil – competed for the much-desired title. And after Brouilly in 2022, and Côte de Brouilly last year, a Moulin-à-Vent cuvée won the trophy.

Learn more about the 12 Beaujolais AOCs.

A record number of tasters

This event is not to be missed for some wine professionals and educated amateurs. 181 of them attended the event to taste the numerous cuvées registered for this competition. Gold and silver medals were attributed after a first tasting.

At the end of the first selection, a special jury of experts – a sommellerie teacher, an oenologist, a restaurateur, a wine merchant and a sommelier – blind tasted again the gold medal cuvées in order to find the best. It’s finally Moulin-à-Vent Old Vines 2023 from Domaine de Colonat which was elected World’s Best Gamay 2024.

267 gamay cuvées awarded by a medal

267 medals, among which 164 in gold and 103 in silver, were granted to the best Gamay cuvées of this competition. The jury also awarded a special mention to the best wine from Switzerland: Coteau de Peissy AOC, Le Baron Rouge Old Vines 1er cru 2022 from Domaine des Charmes, 100% Gamay.

Find the complete award list on the competition official website.

International Gamay Competition – © VBerlanda
Moulin-à-Vent Old Vines 2023 – Domaine de Colonat
Julie and Thomas Collonge

Moulin-à-Vent awarded World’s Best Gamay

The “World’s Best Gamay 2024” trophy has been awarded to Moulin-à-Vent Old Vines 2023 from Domaine de Colonat.

Winegrowers for 9 generations, the Collonge family cultivates 3 hectares of vines and produces cuvées of Morgon, Moulin-à-Vent, Chiroubles, Brouilly, Régnié and white Beaujolais AOCs. After studying viticulture and oenology, Thomas trained in France and abroad before joining the family wine estate for 10 years of passing on knowledge from its parents. Since 2018, Julie and Thomas have been continuying to develop the wine estate. The knowledge of their best terroirs allows them to offer 5 cuvées from specific plots from Moulin-à-Vent and Morgon AOCs.

“Nous avons identifié au Domaine de Colonat trois éléments qui nous semblent essentiels pour produire des grands vins : nos vieilles vignes, le choix de la date de récolte et le tri des raisins à la récolte.” confie Thomas Collonge.

The grapes of this cuvée come from 3 different plots of Moulin-à-Vent AOC: les Greneriers, Bois Pontdevaux and Maison Neuve. The clay-granitic terroirs offer limited but regular water availability to the 61 to 93 year-old vines. The wine ages in concrete vats in order to preserve fruit and freshness.

Moulin-à-Vent AOC celebrates its centenary in 2024: get more news here.

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Exceptional Beaujolais wines: the selection for the ASI Best Sommelier of the World contest 2023

Concours Meilleur Sommelier 2023 Sélection des vins du Beaujolais

As partner of the Best Sommelier of the World contest, the Beaujolais vineyard will have the chance to present its exceptional cuvées. In Paris in February 2023, all international sommeliers will be able to taste these cuvées selected by a prestigious jury.

But how are these wines chosen? Let’s watch the video of this demanding tasting.

A jury of excellence to select 41 exceptional Beaujolais wines.

On the occasion of the partnership between Beaujolais wines and the Best Sommelier of the World contest 2023, three great French sommeliers were able to assess the finest cuvées of the vineyard. Among these exceptional wines, 41 will be presented to the best sommeliers on the planet during the competition week.

To find out more about the ASI Best Sommelier of the World contest 2023, read the dedicated blog article.

In order to make this qualitative selection, three renowned sommeliers took part in the tasting exercise. Philippe Faure-Brac, Best Sommelier of the World 1992 and president of the Union of French Sommellery, Laurent Derhé, Best Artisan Sommelier of France 2007 and Gaëtan Bouvier, Best French Sommelier 2016 and Best Artisan Sommelier of France 2022.

“Today, the aim was to select typical wines from our wonderful Beaujolais vineyard, among gamays and chardonnays, in order to present them to the best sommeliers of the world and […] prove that this vineyard is a great vineyard.”

Laurent Derhé, Best Artisan Sommelier of France 2007

Video : the sommeliers express themselves on the selection of Beaujolais wines

This tasting took place in October 2022 at the Paul Bocuse Institute, in Ecully, Rhône, France. The Paul Bocuse Institute also hosts the restaurant Saisons* awarded by 1 Michelin star. The jurors first selected 40 bottles that will have the honor of being tasted by the elite of world sommelier. Then, they confessed their impressions in front of our cameras.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=txl_0m-2r50

The sommeliers Philippe Faure-Brac, Laurent Derhé and Gaëtan Bouvier. They speak about their Beaujolais tastings for the Best Sommelier of the World contest 2023.

It was therefore a wonderful day of tasting and sommellerie held around Beaujolais wines. Another proof that those exceptional wines have their place on gastronomic tables around the world.

Beaujolais Wines, partner of the ASI Competition for the Best Sommelier of the World Paris 2023. Click here to learn more !

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2020 vintage in Beaujolais : the vintage of the decade

Carnet millésime 2020

The Beaujolais region has had many outstanding vintages in recent years, and 2020 was no exception. The success of this vintage is attributed to the exceptional conditions that have been offered to winemakers, allowing them to produce their signature wines.

Let’s dive into the factors that contributed to making 2020 the vintage of the decade for Beaujolais.

2020 : excellent weather conditions

The distinctive results of 2020 can be attributed to a range of factors, including the exceptional weather conditions that prevailed throughout the seasons. The year was characterized by dry and hot weather early on, which ensured optimal grape ripening and excellent vine health. Although there were occasional rains and temperature drops, these were timely and prevented overripe berries as well as significant yield reductions. Many Beaujolais producers agree that these very favorable conditions have produced great wines,

Gamay grape in summer
Gamay grape in summer – Beaujolais Wines / Etienne Ramousse

“Power, balance, freshness, fruitiness, roundness, and complexity… everything is there!”

Philippe Viet, winemaker in Régnié-Durette

2020 : ripeness, freshness and balance

Ripeness, freshness, and balance are the hallmarks of the 2020 vintage.

The warm temperatures allowed for beautiful ripening of the grapes and stems, providing winemakers with the opportunity to choose their preferred style, whether it be power or elegance.

Production methods were rethought which resulted in the discovery of wines with unique styles, offering new possibilities for gastronomic pairings. Cover crops, mulching, long macerations, low-temperature vinification, or extended aging were some of the techniques employed by winemakers to achieve their desired styles.

Although the alcohol concentration in this vintage is significant, it is beautifully balanced by the wines’ refreshing acidity. This harmony of sugars and acids results in a genuine balance that characterizes the wines of 2020.

2020 vintage : an expression of the Terroir

2020 wines express the terroir in a variety of profiles, depending on the specificities of their land. To learn more about the richness of Beaujolais soils, refer to the page The Beaujolais Vineyard, a Mosaic of Soils.

They gained power in some cases, taking on notes of black fruits, spices, and aromatic herbs from the south. In other cases, they are more delicate, revealing fresher, more lively aromas, and delicate tannins.

The aromatic profiles of the wines vary from one appellation to another, sometimes even from one plot to another, due to the extremely rich geology of the vineyard.

Rocks in Beaujolais
Rocks in Beaujolais – Floriane Tanneur / Beaujolais Wines

With their distinct characteristics and nuances, the 2020 wines exhibit a remarkable aging potential, ensuring they will endure the test of time.

The 2020 vintage is so particular that it got a dedicated booklet. Should you be curious to learn more, please refer to the detailed 2020 vintage report linked below.

in french
in english

Feel free to order the paper version of the 2020 vintage report on our online store.

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Best Sommelier of the World: contest in Paris in 2023

In February 2023, France will host the prestigious Best Sommelier of the World contest in Paris. Seventy candidates from around the world will compete in the major wine event! As an official partner of the ASI Best Sommelier of the World contest Paris 2023, Beaujolais Wines are proud to introduce you to this legendary contest!

A longstanding contest for sommeliers from the world over

Every three years since 1969, the ASI (Association de Sommellerie Internationale) has been in charge of organising the contest. For that matter, this worldwide contest is the most prestigious in the realm of sommellerie. So it is no coincidence that the World’s Best Sommelier title is coveted by all highly-regarded sommeliers!

Back in 1989, France hosted the contest for the first and only time. Now, thirty-four years later, the UDSF (Union de la Sommellerie Française) has the privilege of hosting the event in France again. That’s why, in 2023, the organisers intend to give it their all to make the major contest truly unforgettable.

Winners since the initial contest

  • 1969: Armand Melkonian (French)
  • 1971: Piero Sattanino (Italian)
  • 1978: Guiseppe Vaccarini (Italian)
  • 1983: Jean-Luc Pouteau (French)
  • 1986: Jean-Claude Jambon (French)
  • 1989: Serge Dubs (French)
  • 1992: Philippe Faure-Brac (French)
  • 1995: Shinya Tasaki (Japanese)
  • 1998: Markus Del Monego (German)
  • 2000: Olivier Poussier (French)
  • 2004: Enrico Bernardo (Italian)
  • 2007: Andreas Larsson (Swedish)
  • 2010: Gérard Basset (French on behalf of Great Britain)
  • 2013: Paolo Basso (Swiss)
  • 2016: Jon Arvid Rosengren (Swedish)
  • 2019: Marc Almert (German)
Insigne des sommeliers français (UDSF)
Insigne des sommeliers français (UDSF)

And this year, Pascaline Lepeltier, with Benjamin Roffet as her substitute, has qualified to represent France. As the Best Sommelier of France 2018, she currently works as a sommelier at Chambers restaurant in Manhattan (New York). At the same time, she not only visits the vineyards as often as possible, but is also an author: her first work, Mille Vignes (A Thousand Vines), was published in 2022.

The Best Sommelier of the World contest: how it works

The contest will take place at the Hotel Pullman Montparnasse in Paris from 7 to 12 February 2023. However, the grand finale will be held at the Défense Arena. It is expected to be quite a show for the 3500 people in attendance.

The week-long contestschedule is made up of three competitions, including theoretical questionnaires and blind tasting tests. The quarter-final, on Wednesday and Thursday, 8-9 February, then the semi-final on Friday, 10 February and lastly, the final on Sunday, 12 February. Attending the final is open to wine professionals as well as connoisseurs and the simply curious.

Between the competitions, sommeliers and journalists will take part in several master classes on topics organised by partner vineyards. The Beaujolais vineyards will present, among other topics, its multiple terroirs and the impact of the latter on wine profiles.

Logo Concours ASI Meilleur Sommelier du Monde

This is an opportunity to “showcase France, make Paris shine and promote our restaurant industry, sommellerie, vineyards and winegrowers.”

Philippe Faure-Brac, Best Sommelier of the World 1992

“The event will have a triple impact”, as UDSF President Philippe Faure-Brac explained: “showcase France, make Paris shine and promote our restaurant industry, sommellerie, vineyards and winegrowers, in real life, of course, but also online.”

What a great aim for the 2023 French event, which will undoubtedly leave a lasting impression on the international history of wine!

Beaujolais Wines, an official partner of the ASI Best Sommelier of the World Paris 2023 contest: click here to find out more!

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Chateau life in the Beaujolais region

Do you sometimes find it difficult to choose a wine? If you don’t have a friendly local wine merchant or winemaker to hand, the best solution is to look for the château on the label! The wine inside is sure to be fit for a king!

When it comes to Beaujolais wines, trust in conventional wisdom. There are more than 300 chateaus and country homes in the Beaujolais winegrowing area, many of which have vineyards.

Prestigious wines

© Jean-Luc Mege Photographie

What if we took you to Versailles to convince you? Versailles in Beaujolais, otherwise known as Château de la Chaize, in Odenas is a wonderful example of 17th century architecture. The estate covering nearly 330 hectares is landscaped with French formal gardens designed by the King’s famous gardener André Le Nôtre . Château de la Chaize has 140 hectares of vines, and is hence both an architectural and winegrowing wealth with the production of lovely Brouilly, Côte de Brouilly and Fleurie vintages. The wines are matured in the longest vat room in the Beaujolais region: a 108-metre-long building classified as a historical monument.

Other impressively sized cellars can be found in the chateau de Juliénas, former stronghold of the Lords of Beaujeu. They are in the basement under the courtyard and cover a surface area of over 200 metres, the equivalent of two football pitches! Juliénas has been produced there for five generations.

In Villié-Morgon, Château de Bellevue overlooks the village. The 19th century mansion was once inhabited by one of the Lumière Brothers’ children as well as by Princess Lieven, née Chateaubriand. With a vineyard that stretches out over 15 hectares in the Morgon appellation, the wine estate is considered one of the gems of the Beaujolais region.

Château des Bachelards, Château Thivin, Château des Moriers, Château Saint-Vincent or Château de Fleurie and Domaine de Briante, to name but a few, are also part of the long list of the winegrowing region’s heritage treasures. There’s no doubt about it, the area is full of Châteaux and to discover them all, you just need to come for a visit!

When the wine tells a story

If you want to follow the trail of the Lords of Beaujeu, visit the château de Montmelas in Montmelas-Saint-Sorlin, a former garrison that belonged to the Lords of Beaujeu in the Middle Ages. The château looks down on the surrounding area from the top of its hill.

In the 19th century, the architect Viollet-le-Duc gave it a new look by adding crenelated towers. Ever since it has been nicknamed “Sleeping Beauty’s castle”.

The chateau’s vines produce Beaujolais Villages wines; the profile of the Marquis of Montmelas whose family has owned the château for five centuries appears on the label.

Enigmatic wines

History and story lovers may want to investigate the chateau de Vaurenard in Gleizé, and more particularly a bottle of Baron de Richemont, a Beaujolais appellation. The Baron claimed to be Louis XVII, son of Louis XVI and Marie Antoinette. The building dates from the 17th and 18th centuries

Stunning chateaus of golden stones

Enjoy the sun’s rays at the château de Rochebonne in Theizé. Its 17th century façade of golden stones is to be enjoyed with a glass of Beaujolais Villages.

Another place to soak up the rays is Jarnioux: the chateau is a marvel in golden stones that will delight Renaissance enthusiasts. Some of the building dates from the 12th century, which makes Jarnioux château one of the best preserved in the region. It is the kingdom of the Beaujolais appellation.

For a relaxing break in a fully renovated 15th century chateau, try the château de Bagnols, a great starting point for exploring Pierres Dorées country and its wines.

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Beaujolais, accessible wines

Are you a wine enthusiast or maybe just an enthusiastic wine drinker who wants to learn the art of wine tasting? Beaujolais are just the wines for you. The Gamay grape variety is expressed in 12 appellations in red and 2 in rosé. Same goes for the Chardonnay variety that comes in Beaujolais and Beaujolais-Villages white. Now that’s a winegrowing region that definitely knows how to make itself accessible!

A glassful of AOCs

Beaujolais stands out from other French vineyards thanks to the readability that characterizes its appellations. No need to remember dozens of names: Beaujolais covers just 12 AOCs. So, perfecting your knowledge of Beaujolais wines is a real pleasure.

You then need to get to know all the grape varieties and once again Beaujolais is different from the others. All the wines are made from a single variety: Gamay Noir à Jus Blanc for reds and rosés and Chardonnay for whites. Very easy to remember… After that, you move on to the next level! Morgon Côte du Py, Moulin-à-Vent Rochenoire or Fleurie

Grille-Midi: all these names prefigured by a Beaujolais appellation are in fact what are called lieux-dits, or localities. Quite often, you’ll find them on the labels of great vintages produced on the most renowned terroirs of Beaujolais growers. That in-depth knowledge of Beaujolais soils, and the winegrowers who enhance the specificities of each terroir allow exceptional Beaujolais wines to come into being. Complex wines – endowed with a great potential for ageing – to be readily shared with great friends.

A mouthful of knowledge

Often without really realizing it, people’s first introduction to the world of Beaujolais wines and perhaps wines in general, is through Beaujolais Nouveaux. Even though it’s an easy-drinking, party wine, these primeur or young wines are nevertheless fine representatives of the new vintage, and joyous precursors of the year’s Gamay character. An ideal introduction to the Beaujolais spirit!

To understand the other Beaujolais wines, you have to learn how to grasp their nuances: Morgon, Fleurie, Beaujolais-Villages, Chiroubles and Brouilly have certain similarities, but also their own personalities. Because although there is only a limited number of appellations in the Beaujolais, the wines have a range of aromas and distinct characters! There are even specific terms used to refer to particular Beaujolais wines such as “morgonner”, for example.

As your introduction to Beaujolais wines progresses, you’ll start to appreciate the structures of each appellation and understand the strengths of each terroir. In fact, which other winegrowing region pays tribute to its lieux-dits through its wine better than the Beaujolais? With a single grape variety for every color, the terroir can fully express itself thanks to the knowledge and skills of the growers.

A bottleful of training

A good knowledge of wines comes with time and over many tasting sessions. And Beaujolais wines are no exception to the rule. Take advantage of every possible occasion to open a bottle, for drinks with friends, a business lunch, a dinner party, a romantic dinner or just for the pleasure of it. Have fun trying to pick out the right bottle for each occasion to surprise and delight your friends. There is bound to be a Beaujolais to suit every occasion, it’s just a question of looking for it.

Your favorite wine merchant will always be on hand to advise and help you. But why don’t you also try looking for the information at the source? Plan a relaxing break in the Beaujolais region to take a leisurely trip along the Wine Route, visiting cellars, trying out the wines (in moderation of course!) and talking to growers so that you can take home great memories and plenty of new ideas.

And carry on enjoying the experience all year round. Take back with you 2 or 3 bottles of each appellation to store in your cellar. Then see how your taste buds gradually evolve until you can recognize a particular Beaujolais, or even every single appellation, with your eyes closed… Well, in a manner of speaking because of course the eye is the first sense to click in when you try a wine. And Beaujolais wines have a wonderful palette of ruby red colors ranging from clear, intense and deep to garnet hues…

Any introduction to wine tasting in general and to Beaujolais in particular takes time. You get to know Beaujolais wines progressively: there are the simple, uncomplicated Beaujolais Nouveaux wines to indulge in almost as soon as they are produced in the Beaujolais and Beaujolais-Villages winegrowing areas and then there are the 10 more complex and refined crus. Give it a go!

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Heroic Beaujolais vines!

Have you ever noticed the vines tumbling down the Beaujolais hillsides? These exceptional landscapes not only give the region its own unique charm but have also led to this very Beaujolais idea of “heroic wine growing.” Why “heroic” Because you need to be pretty brave to work on these slopes. As the winegrowers themselves say, it’s hard work but it’s fascinating. Once you’ve read this article, you’ll never again see Beaujolais vines in the same light.

Who ever thought of growing wines on slopes?

Beaujolais landscapes are instantly recognizable by their vines planted in perfect rows across the contour lines of hills. You’re probably wondering how winegrowers here got the idea of growing vines on hillsides. Well it’s quite simply because the lie of the land affects the growth of grapes in more than one way!

Firstly, the upper ground has more sunlight than the plain down below. The sun’s rays have fewer obstacles to overcome and can reach the vines directly. And vines love the sun! The warmth creates a good balance between the sweetness and acidity in grapes, which produces wines that are gentle but also very tasty.

But that’s not the only reason why winegrowers brave the sometimes very steep gradients in the Beaujolais region. Water streaming down the slopes is also very advantageous for the grapes. The water doesn’t have time to soak into the ground, it simply runs off down to the bottom of the slope. So the fruit gets just the right amount of water.

This is ideal, because too much water damages the vines. It increases the risk of disease, makes pest control treatment less efficient and prevents the grapes from fully soaking up the flavors of the terroir. The heroism of the vine stock therefore protects them and ensures optimal growth.

Meticulous work so that the heroic vines can give of their best

Winegrowers in the Beaujolais region are brave, daring and tenacious. All work in the vines from September to August has to be done manually, as the winegrowers work gradually across one plot of land to another. Except during the harvest, the winegrower does all this work on own: pruning, disbudding, tying, weeding, hoeing… He creates the best conditions for the grapes to flourish on these difficult slopes. The winegrowers themselves are also heroic!

The “heroic wine growing” label

The hillside rows of vines cover the Beaujolais mountains at an average altitude of 300 metres, with peaks culminating at over 600 metres. The Beaujolais vineyard is a member of CERVIM (Centre for

Research, Environmental Sustainability and Advancement of Mountain Viticulture), alongside other vineyards in the Auvergne Rhône-Alpes Region like Côte-Rôtie as well as the Banyuls-Collioure, Aosta Valley, Piedmont, Douro and other wine regions around the world. This type of winegrowing, practised at over 500 metres in altitude or on inclines over 30% (thresholds defined by CERVIM) is characterised as ‘heroic’ viticulture due to the human involvement and effort imposed by the difficulty of the mountain environment. The challenges are threefold: cultural, ecological and geographical. Here, the grower’s work is glorified. There are 8,900 plots on ‘extreme slopes’ (over 30%), which account for nearly 3,000 hectares in all. Quincié-en-Beaujolais is the steepest village where more than 90 hectares are on slopes with inclines over 30%, and Chiroubles which produces crus, has nearly 60 hectares on steep inclines.

Now that you know more about the conditions under which Beaujolais wines are grown, you’ll surely spare a thought for these extreme winegrowers next time you raise a glass of Beaujolais wine!